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Tension Board vs Moon Board – Indoor Climbing Gym

Guest Post by Brandon Villatoro (Travel Experta’s son)

Let’s talk about the Moon Board and the Tension Board. Have you heard of these? They are definitely the latest craze in our indoor climbing gym and a good reason for it.  

I want to tell you which one I think is more efficient for training.

Tension Board vs Moon Board

What is a Moon Board?

It is just a simple training wall angled at 40 degrees. There are different types of holds on the moon board like slopers, pinches, pockets, jugs, and crimps. Kind of what you can find on the wall like any other wall, but below every hold, there is an LED light that shows the problem to follow and solve. It lights the starting holds and then the holds you need to use and then the top hold.

Tension Board vs Moon Board - Indoor Climbing Gym

The way you light the holds on the wall is with the Moon Board app. When you open the app there a bunch of problems to choose from. The best part is that you can make your own problems as well.

And, what I really like, is that I can share my problems, routes, with my buddies all over the world and we can give each other different problems to set up or do the ones they are doing if I’m in the US and they are in Guatemala.

All you need is your phone, Bluetooth, the app and you are set.

Tension Board vs Moon Board - Indoor Climbing Gym

What is a Tension Board?

The Tension board is almost the same thing but different as with the holds are made of wood. The types of holds on the tension board are jugs, crimps, slopers and pinches.

There is also an app for the tension board with all the same features as the moon board. In that respect they are very similar.

The angling is different as well.

Tension Board vs Moon Board - Indoor Climbing Gym

The best part about the tension board is that its symmetrical. This means that it’s the same on both sides so you can practice the same move with one arm first and then your other arm, toe hooking with one leg and then your other leg, etc…

Tension Board vs Moon Board - Indoor Climbing Gym

I think that the tension board is better for training because you can adjust the incline from 20 degrees to 50 degrees. The holds are made of wood so they are more gentle on your fingers.

Now here is even more information about climbing, this article is about the importance of upper body training for climbers.

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Tension Board vs Moon Board - Indoor Climbing Gym

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